golden years

kam kee started as a 20-seater bing sutt in shau kei wan over 40 years ago and would have continued serving its time-tested menu (which included the now hard-to-find ‘beef juice’ or bovril in water) in the same location but rising rent forced it to close its doors in 2012. it would have been the one that got away if not for regular customer rick chui, who bought the business over and reinstated it in its current premise. he went to lengths to recreate, as faithfully as possible, the menu, look and ambience that had made kam kee the neighbourhood favourite that it was: a white signboard with the bing sutt’s name in its namesake gold lettering; takeaways are packed in waxed brown paper with the cafe’s name stamped in red; inside, vintage pin-up posters and a chinese ink painting deck the walls.

besides the usual bing sutt must-haved, kam kee offers some hearty options for lunch and dinner. their spaghetti with chicken drumstick in a black pepper sauce is an excellent choice and you won’t be disappointed with the chan tan chi (luncheon meat and omelette sandwich). the bread is soft, the omelette is creamy and the thick slice of juicy pork is pan-fried to a lovely crisp – three simple components done well.

213 des voeux road, sai ying pun opens 7.30am-11pm daily